Tag:Tips
Pioneer Award
Hey, I’ve received the Pioneer Award from Andrea Cook at iHEARTgreenmedia. All right, all right, hold down the Oooo’s and Ahhh’s… It is always nice to get noticed.
Andrea is a friend with whom I’ve been working on several projects, not to mention the fact that we continually cross paths in our volunteer lives. We just recently debated Lurkers on her LinkedIn Social Media page. I had previously discussed my thoughts on Lurkers here.
Andrea is very active in the community and is doing good things for Culver and Plymouth through her iHEARTculver and iHEARTplymouth sites. Check her out.
Attic Insulation
Typical Ice Dam Condition
Becky and I made a trip to South Bend last week and she pointed out the icicles on many of the houses and buildings. This led to a discussion on ice dams, which I discussed here previously. There’s another nice picture here.
It was one of those days where it was easy to see which buildings and homes had good attic insulation and which didn’t. The temperatures were just below freezing and it had been nearly a week since the last snow. Those structures with poor attic insulation stood out easily amongst the sea of white roofs.
The fact that heat rises makes it fairly easy to understand that the majority of a structure’s heat loss is through the roof. In most homes, adding attic insulation is a fairly economical way to save energy costs. When done correctly in conjunction with proper venting, it can prevent or cure ice dam issues as well. This is green that saves green!
Icicles are pretty, but they may well be the sign of underlying problems and potentially the precursor to water damage. Take a look at your home the next time you pull into your neighborhood. If your house has lots of pretty icicles and is the only one without snow on the roof, you may have an insulation deficit.
Historic Renovations
We have completed many historic projects over the years. If you are considering a historic renovation project a 20% tax credit is available as an incentive to encourage you. The first step is to see if your proposed project qualifies. Here are the Secretary of The Interior’s Standards for Rehabilitation:
- A property shall be used for its historic purpose or be placed in a new use that requires minimal change to the defining characteristics of the building, its site and environment.
- The historic character of a property shall be retained and preserved. Ther removal of historic materials, or alterations of features and spaces that characterize a property, shall be avoided.
- Each property shall be recognized as a physical record of its time, place and use. Changes that create a false sense of historical development shall not be undertaken.
- Most properties change over time; those changes that have acquired historic significance in their own right shall be retained and preserved.
- Distinctive features, finishes and construction techniques or examples of craftsmanship that characterize a property shall be preserved.
- Deteriorated historic features shall be repaired rather than replaced. Where the severity of deterioration requires replacement of a distinctive feature, the new feature shall match the old in design, color, texture and other visual qualities, and if possible, materials.
- Chemical or physical treatments, such as sandblasting, that cause damage to historic materials shall not be used.
- Significant archaeological resources affected by a project shall be protected and preserved.
- New additions, exterior alterations or related new construction shall not destroy historic materials that characterize the property.
- New additions and adjacent or related new construction shall be undertaken in such a manner that, if removed in the future, the essential form and integrity of the historic property and its environment would be unimpaired.
Historic renovation is also one of the most green forms of construction. Finding a new use for a historic building may well save the structure from the landfill. Careful analysis should be conducted, though. Old is not always historic. Historic structures are notorious for construction cost overrun issues as well as operational costs that exceed those of new construction. As the project is considered, it must be determined if the project is being approached altruistically or for profit.
Green = Many Things
Where is it written that a green-built home must be small? Monthly energy bills determine a home’s carbon footprint, not its size. In fact, a 10,000 square foot house with zero energy bills is far greener than a 1,500 square foot energy hog.
I would argue that a large home built with no wood, using concrete, steel, and polystyrene (a petrochemical product) is far greener than a smaller home built with wood. This is because the concrete house can last 300 years with no maintenance, while the “earth-friendly” wood house is subject to mold, mildew, rot, termite and fire damage (despite being recycled, reclaimed, salvaged, or sustainably grown FCS-certified).
The periodic replacement of inferior building material, such as wood, is far more wasteful to our natural resources than a concrete house built to last. Durability trumps embodied energy.
Green building encompasses five elements: durability, energy efficiency, water efficiency, indoor air quality, and the environment – not just the environment alone. A fact sometimes lost on many advocates of green.
Dueling theories aside, there is one thing on which all building science experts agree. To save money every time, place resources into the exterior building shell envelope, not into mechanicals or renewables.
Lee Hitchox – Taken from BMail; Builder Magazine
